The Peace of Patmos

It was like watching a split screen. There was a choice between images of a chaotic mass of people flooding the streets of Athens, or the sun-sparkled, steel-blue water of the Aegean Sea. Our vantage point that day--the first day of the Iraq War--was a seaside restaurant on the Greek island of Patmos. One half of the view was a television showing a turbulent, anti-war demonstration in the Greek capital city, the other half was a window revealing a sheltered harbor ringed with colorful boats and whitewashed buildings. The contrast between the experience of Patmos and the knowledge that our port of call the next day was Athens, made for a feeling of tranquility with a twist. Somehow, suspended between the protests of Europe and the bombing of Baghdad, we were also caught in time between ancient prophecies and rumors of war.

That is the essence of Patmos. The island has a history of being a quiet place where people learn of tumultuous events. The last, most vividly descriptive book of the Bible, the prophetic book of Revelation, was written there when Patmos was an isolated Roman outpost. That Apocalyptic legacy has shaped the history of Patmos, a place now known as the “holy island of the Aegean.”

Patmos was the last stop on our trip, a cruise around the Aegean Sea. We had come to see Greek and Turkish historic sites and cities we had desired to visit for a long time. Yet until we left the United States, because of the threat of impending war, it was uncertain whether a trip to a region so close to Iraq would be safe. Our tour, however, was coordinated by Educational Opportunities (http://www.eo.travelwithus.com/), a group having 30 years experience leading international archaeological and historical tours in places like Turkey and Israel. We let them make the call on issues of travel security. By the time the invasion of Iraq was imminent, we were leaving Turkish soil for Patmos.

Whitewashed Buildings

The most picturesque place we visited on our cruise, Patmos was also the most relaxing. The Greek Islands are famous for their whitewashed buildings, dwellings that shelter their residents from the withering Mediterranean summer heat. But Patmos is pleasant during the early spring. The abundance of white structures was striking to see and photograph, but there was no need for protection from the sun. In fact, we relished its warmth. After experiencing unseasonably cold weather during much of our trip, the temperature on Patmos was in the high 60s.

South Island

Patmos divides easily into two sections: North Island and South Island. These halves are joined by the narrow isthmus at the harbor of Skala. Though the North Island contains several beaches, the South Island is the primary draw for most visitors, including my wife, Trish, and I. Like many travelers to Patmos, we didn't see the North Island at all. Like Patmos in general, The South Island is a small area and best seen on foot. The narrow streets of Skala and Chora, the island's two main towns, are easily covered in a self-guided walking tour.

Since the 11th century, this region of Patmos has been administered by St. John's Monastery. The Greek Parliament has also designated Patmos a sacred island. Not surprisingly, it is the antithesis of such Greek party islands as Mykonos. Though there are several beautiful beaches on Patmos, the dress and behavior of the islanders (and visitors) is generally more modest. As one travel website states, “you don't come to Patmos for all-day beach parties and banana boat rides” (www.greek-islands.eu.com/patmos.html).

Patmos receives several thousand visitors each year, but it is rarely crowded. The island has not yet been “discovered” in the travel sense of the word. In fact, the only large group we saw on the island was from our own tour. Patmos is not equipped to accommodate today's gigantic cruise ships. Even our relatively small vessel, the Triton (with 700 people), was not able to navigate the shallow harbor of Skala. Tenders taxied everyone to shore and back.

Skala

The port town of Skala is just like I pictured a Greek island cityscape, with two-story whitewashed buildings that seemed to flow down the hill, abruptly stopping at the water's edge. Skala is the main port of arrival on Patmos. Many of the island's shops are clustered around the harbor. You can find everything from t-shirts to jewelry to hand painted Greek Orthodox icons. Contrary to conventional wisdom, you want to bring cash to Patmos. Many of the shops and restaurants are not equipped to accept credit or debit cards. In fact, the store proprietors on Patmos are rather laid back and the prices are set, which was a surprise after several days of haggling with very aggressive and persistent shopkeepers in Turkey.

One of the most relaxing moments of our trip was walking along the harbor and exploring Skala. The main street of Skala extends along the waterfront, and, in the Greek tradition of Promenade, is an excellent place for a stroll.

Chora

The city on a hill you see from the harbor is Chora, the ancient administrative and spiritual center of Patmos. Looking up at Chora from the harbor is an impressive sight. The island's terraced hillside creates a verdant visual staircase that walks your eyes up to a town that, through the haze, looks almost like a medieval illusion. If you're part of a tour, you'll probably take a bus from Skala to Chora; however, I would recommend walking the ancient flagstone road up to Chora if you have the time. Trish and I walked only a section of it, and given another opportunity, I would walk the entire distance.

By itself, a walk through the cobblestone streets of Chora makes a trip to Patmos worthwhile. One of the most well-preserved centers of Byzantine architecture in the world, the town has several courtyards and mansions open to the public. Over the centuries, many a wealthy ship captain built a house in Chora. The Simantiris Mansion, built in 1625, has furniture dating to the 1700s and paintings from the 1500s. The city is also packed with small churches. The locals say Chora has a church for every day of the year.

Monastery of St. John

Chora's ring of whitewashed buildings surrounds the Monastery of St. John, the most commanding sight on the island. The monks who reside there claim it is the oldest continuously functioning monastery in the world, being founded in 1088 by Horius Christodoulos in honor of the Apostle John. Appearing more like a medieval castle than a monastery, St. John's was fortified during the Middle Ages to protect the islanders from numerous pirate raids. The compound was considered unconquerable. You can see the spots atop the wall from which boiling oil and molten lead was poured on unfortunate invaders.

The main courtyard, with its arched doorways and ancient frescoes, looks like the inner sanctuary of a fortress. The doors to the monks’ cells are visible from here as is the bell tower. A walk up the stairs to the bell tower also provides a great view of Skala's port and isthmus below. On a clear day, the Turkish mainland and the Greek isles of Ikaria and Samos are visible in the distance.

The monastery houses a wealth of Greek Orthodox art, manuscripts, artifacts, and history. Its collection is exceeded only by the monastic state of Mount Athos in Northern Greece. The museum of St. John's holds only a small portion of the monastery's historical treasures. We saw handwritten manuscripts from the 13th century that were perfectly preserved and even older icons and frescoes. An icon is a painting or inlaid tile portrait of a revered person(s) who is depicted with a halo around his/her head, usually with a more somber expression. A fresco depicts a significant event. It is a mural that is painted on plaster. We saw quite a few icons and frescoes during our trip, but some of the finest were at St. John's Monastery, many dating from the 13th century.

Cave of the Apocalypse

The other major draw of the island points to the reason why the monastery was built in the first place. The Cave of the Apocalypse is where St. John is reputed to have written the last book of the Bible. Once opening up to the hillside and overlooking the Aegean, the cave was built over in the 11th century and became the Monastery of the Apocalypse. Though much speculation exists over whether St. John actually lived in the cave or used the rocky handhold and headrest that are now marked in silver, there is much greater agreement that he wrote the Apocalypse somewhere on Patmos. Some islanders say that John used the geographic features of Patmos to give concrete terms to the prophecy he received. Regardless of the truth about the traditions of the cave and the inspiration of the island's landscape, it is likely that John explored the entire island, including the cave we visited. In his own words, the Apostle tells us that his exile was not an easy experience: “I, John, your brother and companion in the suffering and kingdom and patient endurance that are ours in Jesus, was on the island of Patmos because of the word of God and the testimony of Jesus (Rev. 1:9).” The presence on Patmos of the legacy of the Apocalypse was almost palpable.

Wars and Rumors of Wars

Our tour guide, Rita, was a Swiss Reformed Christian who moved to Patmos when she married a Greek Orthodox native of the island. She is like most of the island's residents, who earn their living from tourism. She felt led to pray after we had finished seeing the monastery and the cave. The Bible speaks of “wars and rumors of wars” being a sign of the “last days.” Being on the island where the most famous “last days” prophecy was written, hearing of the first of a war and rumors about that war led to some serious reflection. She talked about her own spiritual journey, and her honest prayer was worth remembering: “Lord, I do not agree with this war. But maybe, on this island where the Revelation of the end of the world was written, you are trying to tell us something today. If some part of your purpose is being accomplished by this war then I pray you would show us what it is O Lord. We don't always understand your purposes Lord.”

Sidebar

Location

Patmos is the northernmost island of the Dodecanese (Greek for “twelve islands”) chain of the Southeast Aegean Sea, a group that includes Rhodes, the administrative capital of the region. “The holy island of the Aegean” is approximately 180 miles from Athens, but only 60 miles from Turkey.

History

Patmos has little notable history before about 93 AD. That was the year the Apostle John was exiled to the island by the Roman Emperor Domitian. John remained on Patmos until the death of Domitian three years later. It was during this period that John wrote the Apocalypse, the biblical Book of Revelation. The Greek Orthodox Church dates the writing to 95 AD, and celebrated the 1900 year anniversary of the last book of the Bible in 1995.

After the fall of Rome, the population of Patmos fluctuated until the 11th century, when St. John’s Monastery was established. Since that time the island has been continuously inhabited. Patmos was one of the last areas of modern Greece to return to Greek control. Since the writing of the Revelation, the control of Patmos changed hands from the Roman Empire, to the Byzantine Empire, to the city of Venice, to the Ottoman Empire, to Italy, to Germany, to Britain, and finally to Greek rule in 1947. In 1981, the Greek Parliament declared Patmos a “sacred island.”

Revelations

The NBC series starring Bill Pullman is partially set in and around Patmos. Pullman’s character is a religious skeptic who becomes involved in events of end times phenomena.

Getting There

Patmos has no airport and must be reached by boat. The most convenient access is by taking a connecting flight from Athens or Thessaloniki to the nearby islands of Samos, Kos, or Leros (http://www.gogreece.about.com/od/domesticairlines), and from there taking a ferry to Patmos (http://www.ferries.gr/). Greece is vigilant about keeping its islands connected to the mainland and runs an extensive ferry service. There are also boats that run from Athens to Patmos via other islands. This route is less expensive, but is a 10-12 hour journey.

Restaurants and Accommodations

Most of the island's dining is centered in Skala and Chora. There are plenty of opportunities to eat gyros and souvlaki, as well as various types of seafood, including squid and octopus. Prices vary widely as well. As with the local shops, not all restaurants accept credit cards.
Most of the hotels and domatia (rooms for rent) are centered around Skala. There are few options in Chora, especially around Easter, when the island is the most crowded. For information on both dining and lodging visit www.greek-islands.eu.com/patmos/html.

Educational Opportunities

Founded in 1974, the company leads tours to places of significance in Christian history. Their Journeys of Paul tour (which we went on) is currently conducted twice a year, in March and November. The cruise ship tour visits New Testament sites around the Aegean Sea related to the lives of the Apostle Paul and the Apostle John, including the extensive ruins at Ephesus in Turkey, generally considered one of the top two or three archaeological sites in the world. For more information visit http://www.eo.travelwithus.com/.